BY ROXANI FALTZI
Edinburgh’s diverse cultural identities manifest in its vibrant culinary, arts, music, design, and fashion scenes. A juxtaposition of timeless tradition and riotous energy provides the city and its inhabitants their celebrated eccentricities and dry sense of humor. It is a city that both insists upon good manners and yet encourages rebellious behavior. In Edinburgh, you may have your scone and eat it too.
For those with an eye for the arts, the National Galleries of Scotland – a trio of institutions just a stone’s throw apart – offer everything from Renaissance classics to the quietly radical. The main gallery on the Mound houses a world-class permanent collection, while the Gallery of Modern Art, a short hop from the West End, presents a bold sweep of 20th- and 21st-century works in a striking neoclassical setting.
Coffee or tea?
Lannan
Beyond the cult Edinburgh Bakery
Few places have captured the spirit of a city quite like Lannan. Since opening in Edinburgh’s bohemian Stockbridge in 2023, Darcie Maher’s bakery has become a destination in its own right, attracting devoted locals, travelling food enthusiasts, and a growing international following. Lannan Pantry builds on that success, while reflecting a wider return to slower, more intentional ways of shopping and eating. Tucked beside the bakery, it extends Maher’s world beyond the pastry counter into a space shaped by seasonality, craftsmanship, and the simple rituals that surround good food.
Designed with the same warmth and attention to detail that have made Lannan so beloved, Lannan Pantry invites visitors to linger a little longer among shelves lined with seasonal produce, fresh bread, house-made preserves, cheeses, charcuterie, biodynamic wines, and thoughtfully selected homewares.
The Milkman
Edinburgh’s most photographed coffee spot
Tucked along Cockburn Street in Edinburgh’s Old Town, The Milkman has quietly become one of the most sought-after, and most photographed coffee destinations. Set within a historic stone building that once housed a dairy shop, the café offers a charming little pause from bustle of the Royal Mile just above. Small in scale but influential in spirit – with a second address just along the same street – the Milkman has helped shape specialty coffee culture in Scotland, where quality, sustainability and thoughtful sourcing have come to define the craft.
Inside, worn stone walls, wooden shelves and soft lighting create an intimate space that feels both relaxed and considered. Freshly brewed coffees are prepared with care, drawing a steady mix of locals and visitors who pause here for a moment of calm amid the steep streets and winding closes of the Old Town, before continuing their day.
Söderberg
We are a Scandinavian bakery, passionate about sourdough bread and traditional Swedish baking. Our coffee is roasted to our own recipe with notes of caramel and chocolate and pairs beautifully with our signature Swedish cardamom bun for a classic Swedish Fika.
Brown’s of Leith,the Shore
A successful trip to Brown’s of Leith began an hour before closing on a Thursday. I pulled open the doors, stepped inside, and found it pretty busy, but managed to snag a table.
I was finally able to sit, eat, and drink after my third visit. The first two were failures; no empty tables and barely any standing space. This is unusual because Brown’s of Leith is a rather large converted ship-repair warehouse, so you would imagine there would be boatloads of space. In fact, if you didn’t know it was there, it would be very easy to miss. I am still worried about the venue’s viability, despite people coming from across the city to pry open these former shipbuilding doors, buy expensive coffee, and sit in for a while.
Memorable stays
The Hoxton Edinburgh
The Hoxton brings modern hospitality to Edinburgh’s West End
Set across a row of eleven Georgian townhouses in Edinburgh’s West End, The Hoxton brings a relaxed, contemporary energy to one of the city’s most elegant neighbourhoods.
Original features remain, but the atmosphere feels distinctly current, shaped by warm materials, layered textures, and a modern easy-going vibe. Throughout the day, the space shifts naturally in tone. Coffee and laptops give way to long lunches, evening drinks, and conversation that lingers into the late hours. Guests and locals gather in a place that feels less like a destination and more like part of the neighbourhood. The Hoxton Edinburgh reflects the city itself: historic yet forward-looking, composed yet lively; a memorable stay for travellers who prefer to feel part of the urban rhythm.
The Witchery by the castle
An unmistakably Gothic experience
In the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, where the Royal Mile begins its descent through the Old Town, The Witchery by the Castle is set within a cluster of historic buildings, some dating back to the sixteenth century. Steeped in centuries of Edinburgh history, it remains one of the city’s most atmospheric places to dine.
Beneath dark timber beams, velvet drapes and flickering candlelight, the atmosphere feels unmistakably Gothic. Dining here is theatrical and indulgent, with a menu that draws on classic Scottish cuisine and seasonal ingredients, presented in keeping with the restaurant’s lavish surroundings. The Witchery is also home to eight lavish suites, allowing guests to stay within the same dramatic setting long after dinner has ended, immersed into an experience that belongs to another era.
BARD SCOTLAND
Bard is a shop and gallery for Scottish craft and design, based in Leith, Edinburgh, founded by husbands Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens. We tell stories about ideas, people and objects that forge Scottish cultural identity, past, present and future. Our mission is twofold: we believe that living with craft can ground and elevate our daily experience, at home and in society; we also believe that Scottish craft and design is ripe for a global audience. If it’s true that we are what we make, then we want to show the world that we are made of more than tartan shortbread tins.
Restaurant Martin Wishart
Michelin-starred dining in Edinburgh’s historic port of Leith.
For more than two decades, Restaurant Martin Wishart has been one of the defining addresses of Scottish fine dining. Martin Wishart, an Edinburgh-born chef, has firmly established himself as one of the UK’s most highly respected chefs. Trained under renowned chefs such as Albert Roux, Michel Roux Jr, and Marco Pierre White, he has created his own culinary magic. Since earning its Michelin star in 2001, Martin Wishart has continued to combine the precision of classical French technique with the exceptional seasonal produce of Scotland’s land and sea.
Inside, the atmosphere is elegant yet understated. Soft lighting, crisp linen, and attentive service create a dining room where every detail is carefully considered, allowing the focus to remain firmly on the food. The menu follows the rhythm of the seasons, celebrating Scotland’s exceptional seafood, game, and local produce while remaining rooted in the traditions of classical French cooking. Long regarded as one of Scotland’s leading restaurants, it remains an enduring benchmark for Scottish gastronomy and one of Edinburgh’s finest dining experiences.
Kathryn Sargent on shaking up Savile Row
Savile Row Master Tailor Kathryn Sargent is expanding her business into Scotland, opening a new studio in Edinburgh’s Howe Street. Kathryn, the first female Master Tailor to have her own shop on Savile Row, is thrilled with the new premises. She said: “As well as wanting to extend Savile Row tailoring to Scottish clientele, we noticed a number of our existing clients, particularly from USA and Europe, were travelling through Scotland on business and leisure trips and requesting tailored outfits and fittings for their trips, so bringing Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring to Scotland is the next natural step for the brand“I have always been inspired by the heritage of Scotland – its colours, textures, fabrics, and landscapes – and ever since starting my business I have had a Kathryn Sargent Harris Tweed specially woven in the Outer Hebrides. To mark the opening of the new Atelier in Edinburgh we are creating two new colourways of Kathryn Sargent Harris Tweed designs in green and blue, in addition to the original brown design. We will also offer a broad selection of tartans and can help and explain the nuances and specific protocols of Scottish dress and, if customers are interested, advise on clan tartans.
